Tuesday

Good afternoon. Just 3 more weeks until Christmas break!!
This is the final week to get caught up, at risk interims will be handed out next week.--so...check your blogs and make sure you are posting regularly.

Grade 11- You will need all photo of the weeks, atleast one shot for Williams lake, camera functions and assignments: Montage, abstract, motion ALL DUE THIS WEEK!!

Grade 12- You MUST have all the photo of the weeks, atleast one shot for Williams lake, camera functions and 7 Units for the portfolio: Each unit consists of 8 photos

-Portraiture
-Landscape
-Black/white
-Night Photography
-Macro Photography
-Movement
-Abstract
-Double exposure
-Wildlife or Third Party
-Extreme Lighting
-Open Theme (not just random photos but a theme: such as self portrait, emotions, nature etc.)

We will continue to look at the Photographer of the week and then we shall walk to the Library.

3 weeks until Christmas break

Photo of the week: HANDS

you will be heavily marked for creativity. Please make sure you keep up with the weekly assignments. Remember to check your blogs and make note of what you need to accomplish this week. Print outs available upon request. *three weeks until Christmas break!

Photographer of the week

Snowboard/skateboard Photographer:
Fredrik A. Rasmussen
http://www.momentcorp.com/snow/snow.html




Here is a link for 'how' Fredrik creates photographic sequences
http://www.momentcorp.com/review/tutorials.html

Thursday November 25

Good morning, please spend this block wisely- look for interesting shots of hang-out and around the school. Not your ordinary sites, make them interesting.
Also, pls check your blogs, I have posted what you are missing (Grade 11)

Poor Tom
I have not been had time to show more of Tom Hoops work so I am going to add some to look at and discuss today.

Good morning

Today we will continue with our 'fun challenge' where you are working in groups to photograph:

-where we hang out
-our school
-main street (down town)

Remember to be creative with your shots and make them interesting.
Flikr site NVSSPHOTOGRAPHY

Tuesday October 19,2010

FUN CHALLENGE:

WE will be collaborating with a School from Williams Lake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wlssphotography/

They have started to post the photos: Pls form groups of 4 and choose one of the below themes:

Main street
Our school
This is where we hang out

Pls make these interesting, our school/town will be reflected.
we have a class flikr site called NVSSphotography. I will be submitting some of the best pics from each assignment.

It is Monday!!!

PHOTO OF THE WEEK: CAMERA TRICKS

Good day, today we will talk about camera tricks and tips for taking unsual photos.
LAST WEEK:
Abstract photos were due now they are PAST DUE!
We are moving onto the movement assignment:
Suggestions:

• try to stop water/liquid
• pan with a subject (follow person running with the camera as you take the shot)
• blur the background and keep the subject clear.
• try photoshop techniques
• use light and draw with it in the dark (flashlight, fire, glow stick, cell phone)

Other Techniques To Capture Motion

Besides the two main techniques described above, you can also freeze the entire field of vision or blur everything. Freezing the entire scene can give your photographs a unique look, especially if the objects strongly imply movement. For example, consider a bird that is flying in front of a waterfall. Both imply motion to the viewer. Freezing the entire scene captures that motion in a single moment and can produce a breathtaking image. You should use a shutter speed of at least 1/1000th of a second for this type of shot.

Assignment #6 Movement

Movement can be hard to capture. Think about implied movement as well as an action shot. Try using the difference functions of your camera in order to try and catch someone or something in motion. It's amazing really how much there is to see in the world.

This assignment is to capture movement on camera. This can be difficult if you're not careful. There is a difference between blur to show movement and just a blurry image.
You can capture movement by slowing down your shutter speed, by decreasing your ISO, and/or by increasing your aperture. It is a good idea to use a tripod in these cases.
You can get a blurred background with a sharper subject by following your moving subject and then snapping the shot.

You don't need blur to show movement. If you don't have the capabilities to use a slow shutter speed and a tripod, you can also photograph the suggestion of movement. Creating images with curves can imply movement.
Criteria for assignment: Movement

You must photograph many images, experimenting with different settings on your camera. Please submit 6 perfected expressions of movement. Save the images in your folder titled: Movement.

Here are some examples of movement shots: Blurring background

 FREEZING ACTIONcomplete blur
 MOVEMENT WITH LIGHT

 FROZEN WATER MOTION

Sites to help with shooting movement:
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-capture-motion-blur-in-photography

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/a-beginners-to-capturing-motion-in-your-photography

http://www.dphotojournal.com/photography-tips-photos-that-capture-moving-objects-motion/

Photographer of the week:
TOM HOOPS

http://www.tomhoops.com/portrait.html

Thursday

Good morning!
Remember: Unusual Perspective by FRIDAY

and Abstract (PAST DUE)

Perspective

Unusual Perspective continued:

What Is... ISO

ISO Sensitivity

Auto; ISO 100, 200, 400, 800 equivalent

ISO sensitivity expresses the speed of photographic negative materials (formerly expressed as ASA).

Since digital cameras do not use film but use image sensors instead, the ISO equivalent is usually given.

What ISO denotes is how sensitive the image sensor is to the amount of light present. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the image sensor and therefore the possibility to take pictures in low-light situations.

And, where you would have needed to physically change to a different roll of film if you wanted a different ISO speed, digital technology allows you to simply dial one in. In this way, you can record images taken at different ISO speeds on the same memory card.

ISO Speed & Exposure

ISO speed affects the shutter speed / aperture combinations you can use to obtain correct exposure.

Suppose your digital camera's light meter warns you there is not enough light to correctly expose a scene. You could use the on-board flash, but let's suppose again it's not allowed (like in a concert or indoors recital).

You would then need to use a higher ISO. Set on "ISO Auto" mode, your digital camera will automatically select a higher ISO. Otherwise, you can manually select the next higher ISO and see if the increased sensitivity allows you to obtain a correctly exposed picture. If it does, you can now take a correctly exposed picture.

Similarly, if you find the camera is using a shutter speed that is too slow (1/60 sec. and slower) to handhold the camera steady and shake-free (thus resulting in blurred pictures), and you cannot open up the aperture anymore, and you do not have a tripod or other means to hold the camera steady, and you want to capture the action, etc. etc. -- then you might select the next higher ISO which will then allow you to select a faster shutter speed.

ISO Speed & Noise

However, all this increase in sensitivity does not come free. There is a price to pay with your image appearing more noisy.

See, when you boost the sensitivity of your image sensor by selecting a higher ISO, the image sensor is now able to record a fainter light signal. However, it is also true now that it will record fainter noise, where noise is any signal that is not attributed to the light from your subject. Remember that an image sensor is still an analog device and it generates its own noise, too! The increased sensitivity allows the image sensor to record more light signal and more noise. The ratio of light signal to noise (S/N ratio) determines the "noise" in your resultant image.

An image sensor is usually calibrated so that it gives the best image quality (greatest S/N ratio) at its lowest possible ISO speed. For most consumer digital cameras, this value will be expressed as ISO 50, ISO 64 or ISO 100. A few digital cameras use ISO 200 as their lowest ISO speed.

Just as with its film counterpart, an image sensor will exhibit "noise" (comparable to "graininess" in film) at the higher ISO speeds. Unlike film, where graininess can sometimes contribute to the mood of the image, noise produced by an image sensor is undesirable and appears as a motley of distracting coloured dots on your image.

ISO Speed & Image Sensor Size

The size of the image sensor determines the ISO speed range that a digital camera can use without suffering from undue noise. One reason for this is because the pixels on the larger image sensor can be larger and therefore receive more light, and thus have a greater signal-to-noise (S/N) ratio (for more information on noise, see our tutorial: What Is... Noise?).

If we take two image sensors, each with 4 megapixels resolution, but of different sizes, the 4 megapixels image sensor that is smaller will exhibit more noise at higher ISOs than the larger one.

1/1.8 in. (7.2x5.3mm)	APS-sized (23x15mm)
4 million tiny pixels crammed into a 1/1.8 in. image sensor cannot compete in image quality with 4 million large pixels on an APS-sized image sensor.

Most consumer digital cameras use 1/1.8 in. (and smaller) image sensors, so noise at high ISO is a problem. Though they will allow you to use a high ISO (such as ISO 400), the resultant image will usually be very noisy.

A 100% crop of a picture taken at night ny a Point-and-Shoot digicam at ISO 400 (1/1.8 in. image sensor) Click on image for original size [warning: large file]

A digital SLR (dSLR), on the other hand, uses a large image sensor, usually full frame (24x36 mm) or APS-sized (half-frame). Noise is rarely a problem and the use of a high ISO 400 results in images with barely noticeable noise.

ISO 400	ISO 800	ISO 1600
Pictures taken by a DSLR at different high ISOs (APS-sized image sensor) Note that here noise really starts to be a problem at ISO 1600 Click on image for original size [warning: large files]

Practical Considerations

• You obtain the best image quality by using the lowest ISO possible on your digital camera. If you want to ensure your digital camera always uses the lowest ISO setting, switch the ISO setting from the default "Auto ISO" (this setting is usually found in the Menu) to the lowest possible on the camera, say ISO 50.

• If you mostly take pictures where there is enough light for a correct exposure, i.e. sunny outdoors, then using the lowest ISO on your digital camera will give you the best image quality your digital camera is capable of.
• If you want to take pictures indoors where light may not be sufficient and in other low-light situations, then you would need to supplement existing light with flash or studio lights. Either that, or select a higher ISO. Of course, depending on your digital camera, a higher ISO may mean a noisy image.
• A large image sensor (APS-sized and larger) means that you are able to use a high ISO speed without unduly worrying about noise. This means that you can take pictures in low-light situations without your pictures being under-exposed. It also means that in situations where it is required, you are able to use a fast enough shutter speed to prevent camera shake. All, again depending on your camera, without much noise.

Should You Use A High ISO?
Until consumer digital cameras start adopting the larger image sensors, noise will continue to be an ever present fact of life at high ISOs.
A little bit of noise may not be a problem depending on the size of your prints or images for display. There are also a number of noise reduction software (Noise Ninja, Neat Image) that you can use to clean up the noise, though there's quite a bit of post-processing work involved, and you might want to reserve this for the special pictures you want to print large format.

If it is a matter of choosing between not being able to take a picture and suffering a noisy image, I'd rather be able to take the picture at a high ISO and then try to clean up the noise afterwards in a noise reduction software.
But remember, to be able to do this, your digital camera must allow you to select a high ISO (ISO 400, ISO 800). Some entry-level digital cameras have only one ISO, usually ISO 64 or ISO 100.


Recap

• ISO (equivalent) speed on a digital camera gives an indication of the sensitivity of the image sensor.
• The best image quality is usually obtained at the lowest ISO setting on your digital camera.
• If by adjusting the shutter speed / aperture combinations you cannot obtain a correctly exposed picture (usually in low-light situations), then you may want to select the next higher ISO.
• However, remember that using a higher ISO usually results in noisy images on consumer digital cameras.
• Use a high ISO if it is a choice between missing a picture and being able to capture an image -- even if it means you need to spend time cleaning out the noise in post-processing using a noise reduction software.
• If you leave your camera on "Auto ISO" and if you find that most of your images are noisy, then perhaps you are taking most of your pictures in low-light situations where the camera has automatically selected a higher ISO.
• If you are printing mostly 4x6 in., you may find the noise is not evident in the prints (and so you don't need to worry about noise at high ISO) though they may be visible at original sizes on screen.

Related Tutorials:

• What Is... Noise?
• What Is... Correct Exposure?
• What Is... Aperture?

Related Links:

• The Pixel War Is So Over -- Think ISO

---

Read this article at:
http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_iso.html

Learning how to control your camera

Photo of the week: Unusual Perspective

This week: We will talk about the camera functions on digital cameras.

Difference between DEP (AV, A on some camera's) and A-DEP modes

Depending on the brand of your digital camera, you may have noticed 2 similar yet different modes on the dial, called DEP and A-DEP. DEP may also be sybolised by the letters AV (Canon) or A (Nikon).
DEP (AV, A) and A-DEP modes, basically do the same thing, in that they allow you to set an aperture so you can control the depth of field seen within a photograph. Or in other words, it allows you to set how much of the scenery you want in focus and how much you want blured. The difference between the two camera modes, is how they achieve this.

What do the letters DEP, AV and A stand for or mean?

The letters DEP stands for 'depth of field automatic exposure'. Sometimes DEP is replaced with the letters AV or A, meaning 'aperture priority'. When you set your camera to these modes, you also need to set an aperture F number. I won't go into detail here, as we already have a good tutorial for this setting at: What is AV mode.

What do the letters A-DEP, stand for or mean?

A-DEP stands for 'automatic depth of field', or 'auto depth of field'. Meaning, the camera sets the depth of field automactically. When the camera is set on A-DEP, the photographer doesn't need to set an aperture F number as the camera does this for them.

How to use A-DEP mode?

To use automatic depth of field, turn your camera's mode dial to A-DEP. Look through your viewfinder and point at the object you want to photograph, then press the shutter button half way down to focus. All the area you see covered by the focal points that flash or light up, will be in focus. Or in otherwords, will be within the automatic depth of field. The camera will choose the best aperture for that specific circumstance when you take the shot.

http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/136/iso-explained/

ISO & White Balance

These features derive from the properties of film emulsion. Every roll available has both a inherent white balance and ISO. Just be aware of how lucky you are that you can change these settings on the fly with a digital camera, and not have to buy a variety of film to accommodate every shooting scenario that may arise.
ISO : ISO is the first thing I set when entering into a shoot. I base my ISO on the shadows and dark areas of the scene, rather then the the ones that are heavily lit. All ISOs can expose well-lit subjects, but only high ISOs can expose dark areas. The second thing I look at is the speed of my lens. If I have a fast lens (i.e. f2.8) then I know I can push my ISO down a touch. I will also consider my subject. If my subject is static and I can shoot long exposures without risking motion blur then I’ll push my ISO lower, whereas fast-moving subjects require fast shutter speeds and often high ISOs.

WB : I ask myself: how many types of light are present? Which color of light is best to balance to? For instance, if I’m shooting outside then I’ll set my white balance to daylight (6000 degrees kelvin). If I’m shooting a home interior lit with daylight through open windows, and tungsten light from the interior fixtures, then I opt daylight and often use my flash to counteract the tungsten light. Sometimes I try to adjust all lighting so it’s the same color by using gels, swapping bulbs, etc. Other times it works nicely just to let all the different colors of light bee seen – like at crazy rock shows.

Aperture and Shutter Speed

Like a fine balance, each must compliment the other. You cannot change one without affecting the other. These are the yin and the yang of photography. The symbols Av and Tv are often used which stand for Aperture Value and Time Value.

Av : I start by looking at my available light and get an idea of what aperture range I’m looking at. Lots of light means a broader range of choice. Second, I’ll think about the shot itself and what depth of field I want. If I want lots of detail at all depths, then I’ll drop it down as low as f22. If I want a soft background, with a refined range of focus, then I’ll open it up to f2.8 or larger. Sometimes you don’t have a lot of choice, so the wider (lower number) the better. That’s why lenses with apertures like a fixed f2.8 are so expensive – because they’ll benefit you in low light. It’s also important to consider your subject – fast moving subjects will require lower apertures, so you can achieve faster shutter speeds.


Tv : The length of the exposure has huge bearing on the outcome of a shot. I start by looking at my subject and whether or not I want them sharp or blurred. Some subjects like city traffic benefit from long exposures, while others suffer. I try to stay at 1/60 of a second or faster when I’m shooting handheld, and use a tripod for slower exposures. Stillness varies from person to person, and image stabilizers will help. Fast subjects require fast shutter speeds.

 

Manual Focus

Auto focus is very fast and often quite reliable. That being said, sometimes you just have to take matters into your own hands. Be prepared to make adjustments at a moment notice.
MF : If my lens is struggling to find contrast in a shot, or focuses on the wrong thing, then it goes straight to manual. Most digital SLRs will even give you a audible or visual cue when you’re manually focused correctly. I try to avoid focusing on my subject center frame, and often try to manually keep my focus while reframing in accordance with the rule of thirds. Trusting my auto focus has ruined more shots than I can count. If you eyesight is a tad out, then make sure to set your diopter accordingly. Learn to trust your eyes.
Photography is a subjective medium. Your personal tastes should influence your shots, and there’s no better way to achieve this than by taking control of your camera. Learn how to use your camera quickly and effectively, but also learn how to study the world around you using a photographer’s eye. Soon, you’ll be able to walk into a room and say “if I were shooting in here, I’d be shooting at 400 ISO, tungsten white balance, f4, at 1/60 of a second.” When that day comes, you might also notice that people start finding you strange. Don’t worry, there will always be another photography-loving soul nearby who will understand.


Read more: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/manual-control-digital-camera#ixzz1578Y12OA