Learning how to control your camera

Photo of the week: Unusual Perspective

This week: We will talk about the camera functions on digital cameras.

Difference between DEP (AV, A on some camera's) and A-DEP modes

Depending on the brand of your digital camera, you may have noticed 2 similar yet different modes on the dial, called DEP and A-DEP. DEP may also be sybolised by the letters AV (Canon) or A (Nikon).
DEP (AV, A) and A-DEP modes, basically do the same thing, in that they allow you to set an aperture so you can control the depth of field seen within a photograph. Or in other words, it allows you to set how much of the scenery you want in focus and how much you want blured. The difference between the two camera modes, is how they achieve this.

What do the letters DEP, AV and A stand for or mean?

The letters DEP stands for 'depth of field automatic exposure'. Sometimes DEP is replaced with the letters AV or A, meaning 'aperture priority'. When you set your camera to these modes, you also need to set an aperture F number. I won't go into detail here, as we already have a good tutorial for this setting at: What is AV mode.

What do the letters A-DEP, stand for or mean?

A-DEP stands for 'automatic depth of field', or 'auto depth of field'. Meaning, the camera sets the depth of field automactically. When the camera is set on A-DEP, the photographer doesn't need to set an aperture F number as the camera does this for them.

How to use A-DEP mode?

To use automatic depth of field, turn your camera's mode dial to A-DEP. Look through your viewfinder and point at the object you want to photograph, then press the shutter button half way down to focus. All the area you see covered by the focal points that flash or light up, will be in focus. Or in otherwords, will be within the automatic depth of field. The camera will choose the best aperture for that specific circumstance when you take the shot.

http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/136/iso-explained/

ISO & White Balance

These features derive from the properties of film emulsion. Every roll available has both a inherent white balance and ISO. Just be aware of how lucky you are that you can change these settings on the fly with a digital camera, and not have to buy a variety of film to accommodate every shooting scenario that may arise.
ISO : ISO is the first thing I set when entering into a shoot. I base my ISO on the shadows and dark areas of the scene, rather then the the ones that are heavily lit. All ISOs can expose well-lit subjects, but only high ISOs can expose dark areas. The second thing I look at is the speed of my lens. If I have a fast lens (i.e. f2.8) then I know I can push my ISO down a touch. I will also consider my subject. If my subject is static and I can shoot long exposures without risking motion blur then I’ll push my ISO lower, whereas fast-moving subjects require fast shutter speeds and often high ISOs.

WB : I ask myself: how many types of light are present? Which color of light is best to balance to? For instance, if I’m shooting outside then I’ll set my white balance to daylight (6000 degrees kelvin). If I’m shooting a home interior lit with daylight through open windows, and tungsten light from the interior fixtures, then I opt daylight and often use my flash to counteract the tungsten light. Sometimes I try to adjust all lighting so it’s the same color by using gels, swapping bulbs, etc. Other times it works nicely just to let all the different colors of light bee seen – like at crazy rock shows.

Aperture and Shutter Speed

Like a fine balance, each must compliment the other. You cannot change one without affecting the other. These are the yin and the yang of photography. The symbols Av and Tv are often used which stand for Aperture Value and Time Value.

Av : I start by looking at my available light and get an idea of what aperture range I’m looking at. Lots of light means a broader range of choice. Second, I’ll think about the shot itself and what depth of field I want. If I want lots of detail at all depths, then I’ll drop it down as low as f22. If I want a soft background, with a refined range of focus, then I’ll open it up to f2.8 or larger. Sometimes you don’t have a lot of choice, so the wider (lower number) the better. That’s why lenses with apertures like a fixed f2.8 are so expensive – because they’ll benefit you in low light. It’s also important to consider your subject – fast moving subjects will require lower apertures, so you can achieve faster shutter speeds.


Tv : The length of the exposure has huge bearing on the outcome of a shot. I start by looking at my subject and whether or not I want them sharp or blurred. Some subjects like city traffic benefit from long exposures, while others suffer. I try to stay at 1/60 of a second or faster when I’m shooting handheld, and use a tripod for slower exposures. Stillness varies from person to person, and image stabilizers will help. Fast subjects require fast shutter speeds.

 

Manual Focus

Auto focus is very fast and often quite reliable. That being said, sometimes you just have to take matters into your own hands. Be prepared to make adjustments at a moment notice.
MF : If my lens is struggling to find contrast in a shot, or focuses on the wrong thing, then it goes straight to manual. Most digital SLRs will even give you a audible or visual cue when you’re manually focused correctly. I try to avoid focusing on my subject center frame, and often try to manually keep my focus while reframing in accordance with the rule of thirds. Trusting my auto focus has ruined more shots than I can count. If you eyesight is a tad out, then make sure to set your diopter accordingly. Learn to trust your eyes.
Photography is a subjective medium. Your personal tastes should influence your shots, and there’s no better way to achieve this than by taking control of your camera. Learn how to use your camera quickly and effectively, but also learn how to study the world around you using a photographer’s eye. Soon, you’ll be able to walk into a room and say “if I were shooting in here, I’d be shooting at 400 ISO, tungsten white balance, f4, at 1/60 of a second.” When that day comes, you might also notice that people start finding you strange. Don’t worry, there will always be another photography-loving soul nearby who will understand.


Read more: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/manual-control-digital-camera#ixzz1578Y12OA